sholio: Snow-covered trees (Winter-snowy trees)
Sholio ([personal profile] sholio) wrote2024-01-22 08:08 am
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Living in the deep freeze

It was -30F according to the outside weather station and -35F on the official (airport) weather when I got up this morning (-35/-37C respectively). It's been so pleasant to be warmer this past week, about 15F/-9C and lightly snowing, which I realize isn't warm by most people's standards but I just find that weather so refreshing and pleasant. It's just so much easier. You don't have to plan everything in advance, you can just get in the car and go places, you don't have to worry about tucking in your groceries so lettuce doesn't freeze on the trip to the car, you don't even have to zip up your coat or cover your ears just for walking from a car to a building. Then it gets cold like this again and everything is couched around with careful planning, no unnecessary travel, having to plug in the car's block heater for hours ahead of time before it'll start ...

But there's also something fascinating and neat to me about the physical changes in the world when it's this cold. Everything sounds different, because the air is so much denser; sounds are sharper, and carry farther, so car noises from a mile away sound like they're right in the yard. (If you think about it, -35F is almost 70 degrees colder than freezing, and 100+ degrees colder than room temperature.)

This is the kind of cold in which boiling water, thrown in the air, turns instantly to a cloud of frozen mist. I filmed this for Youtube a number of years ago; the "pop!" is the water converting to steam, and the video also captures the odd squeaky-crunchy sound of walking around outside when the snow is this cold. (See also the cutting room floor outtake version in which the handle came off the mug.) I demonstrated this phenomenon once many years ago for a coworker who was new to Alaska, and it made an incredibly satisfying, tremendously loud CRACK! that startled me so much - it's not usually that loud - that I thought at first the cup I was using to throw the water had exploded.

Cars have block and battery heaters, operated by a little plug dangling from under the hood. (When I first moved to Fairbanks in the 90s, I used to wonder what the plugs were for, until my first winter ...) Down to about 0 to -10F is about how cold it can be, usually, before the battery will cease to crank without an hour or two of plugging in first, which really makes you think twice about unnecessary trips. Back when I was working an office job, in the really serious cold, -50 and colder, we would go out on our lunch break and start our cars for a while on our lunch break even though they were plugged in, just to make sure they would start at quitting time after 8+ hours of not being driven.

As much as I know that the Arctic warming has all kinds of negative knock-on effects, it's hard to truly muster up a lot of mourning for the weeks-long -50 cold spells we used to have in December and January. Like, okay, yes, local ecosystem, FINE, I do get it. The severe cold is a barrier to many species moving north, like spruce bark beetles and ticks and snakes and other things I'm glad not to have here.

But it's just so incredibly hard to live through. Everything starts to break at -50. Fan belts snap like twigs. Tires freeze flat and go CLUNKCLUNKCLUNK until they warm up enough to be round again. One winter back in the 90s I accidentally rolled my car into a wooden parking barricade during a cold snap and the plastic bumper - which, to be fair, had been through an earlier fender-bender already - fell apart like an eggshell. Propane liquifies below -40, so gas stoves don't work right. (Our propane tank is outside but insulated, so I've rarely had it do anything weirder than having the flame get kind of guttery and yellow; still, it's annoying not to be able to trust that the stove will turn on because Physics Says No.) Diesel engines stop working because diesel turns to sludge. And so forth. Severe cold is hard for humans to live in.

But it's not that cold for us right now, and not supposed to be. It might dip to -40 briefly in the next few days, but it'll warm up after that. And we're already past the darkest point of the winter, the sun will be shining on our house soon (currently blocked by a hill), and things will be getting warmer again.
sartorias: (Default)

[personal profile] sartorias 2024-01-22 05:11 pm (UTC)(link)
That vid is seriously cool!
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[personal profile] philomytha 2024-01-22 05:30 pm (UTC)(link)
That is a very cool video! I can imagine that it would be fascinating to see how weird the world is in that kind of cold even though also very inconvenient to live with. I'm glad you can enjoy some relative mildness right now.
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[personal profile] ambyr 2024-01-22 05:40 pm (UTC)(link)
Hah, I am about to make a post about my own weekend cold adventure, when I went off to the mountains where it was around 6F; I will temper my whining after reading this! (No, actually, it was quite nice. -40 would not have been quite nice.)

[personal profile] helen_keeble 2024-01-22 05:52 pm (UTC)(link)
This is so fascinatingly alien! I honestly can't even imagine that kind of cold. We complain enough about it being -3C here.
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[personal profile] yhlee 2024-01-22 06:01 pm (UTC)(link)
I've basically never lived through anything colder than upstate NY where I think "really cold" is like 0F and even that was rare during my time there. So from a physics standpoint I have some vague intellectual awareness of this kind of temperature effect but I've never experienced it!
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[personal profile] rheanna 2024-01-22 06:06 pm (UTC)(link)

Wow, that video is impressive.

The coldest I’ve ever experienced here was about -10C in the very cold winter of 2010/11. I work in commercial property and one of the novel problems we hit was that road salt/grit doesn’t work under about -5C and that was a completely new thing for us. Which is pretty trivial compared to what you’re describing!

I have a question - how do you stop water pipes freezing all the time in that kind of weather? Just really, really, really good insulation?

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[personal profile] wateroverstone 2024-01-22 06:21 pm (UTC)(link)
I love the water video: that's exciting cold.It doesn't get that cold here: we're usually above 0C, but it feels colder. Eldest daughter who spent a year in Russia and travelled to Siberia in the winter claims West Cumbria feels colder, which various visitors from places like Czechnia where the temperature does drop way below 0C agree. It would be interesting to experience the proper cold of an Alaskan winter.
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[personal profile] rionaleonhart 2024-01-22 06:26 pm (UTC)(link)
This was a fascinating read! I think the coldest weather I've ever been in was about -6°C, so I can't imagine that sort of temperature; it's really interesting to hear about what the experience is like.
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[personal profile] trobadora 2024-01-22 06:38 pm (UTC)(link)
Tires freeze flat and go CLUNKCLUNKCLUNK until they warm up enough to be round again.

This is the bit that got to me. It makes sense when you think about it! AND YET.
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[personal profile] newredshoes 2024-01-22 06:39 pm (UTC)(link)
Friend! Solidarity from Chicago, which seems positively balmy in comparison! (Also, I am working on expanding a fic of mine into an original novel, and it takes place in an all-year super-cold climate — can I ask you some questions sometime over email or Discord?)
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[personal profile] amalthia 2024-01-22 07:55 pm (UTC)(link)
posts like this remind me of why I'm glad I live in Anchorage! I mean it's been at -5 and 0 for the past few days but it's doable. I have been skipping my evening walks because once it's below zero it's just painful to exercise outside.
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[personal profile] amalthia 2024-01-24 05:32 am (UTC)(link)
I remember from the one year of living in Fairbanks it was basically impossible to make a snowman because it was so dry and cold.
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[personal profile] amalthia 2024-01-22 07:56 pm (UTC)(link)
p.s. but I agree I'd rather have a month or two of super cold weather if it means no ants, snakes, roaches, and other pests.
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[personal profile] leesa_perrie 2024-01-22 08:55 pm (UTC)(link)
Too cold for me *shivers* Though thanks for reminding me about those vids - one of the few advantages of being really, really, really cold, I guess!
Edited 2024-01-22 20:55 (UTC)
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[personal profile] slippery_fish 2024-01-22 09:22 pm (UTC)(link)
This sounds both fascinating and like an absolute horror show. :D
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[personal profile] lunabee34 2024-01-22 10:40 pm (UTC)(link)
I cannot imagine it being that cold. It's truly beyond my comprehension. Last winter when it was record-breaking cold down South was the coldest it's ever been where I was living, and it was in the teens and down to the single digits at one point, I think. Granted, that was cold enough here for people to freeze to death and for so many people's pipes to burst and to really be a very big problem for a lot of people because we're not prepared for it, but I cannot imagine the kind of cold you are describing.

*turns on space heater in the 57 degree weather* LOL
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[personal profile] ellenmillion 2024-01-23 12:14 am (UTC)(link)
Should I refrain from pointing out that it is 79 degrees and sunny here? I don't miss Fairbanks right now!!
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[personal profile] yalumesse 2024-01-23 12:38 am (UTC)(link)
*quietly dying in 25-30C heat* All extremes are bad for human habitation. Goes to show just how fragile much of our technology is, I guess. Good luck <3

And seconding above - that video is awesome, thank you for sharing!
Edited 2024-01-23 00:40 (UTC)
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[personal profile] sheron 2024-01-23 01:07 am (UTC)(link)
I feel that feel of kind of appreciating the milder weather even though it's technically bad for the environment.

Also this is all really neat to read about and you should definitely continue to incorporate these incredible tidbits into fic :D (Biggles fic XD )
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[personal profile] lilacsigil 2024-01-23 02:37 am (UTC)(link)
It's 30C/86F here today, which is not super hot but still unpleasant. But I definitely don't like it when it gets to "physics get weird" weather. Up until the late 90s or so it could get too hot for cars to start (vapor lock) but most Australian cars are built not to have that happen in the 40s C anymore. Our work air conditioner once died because it got to 55C on the steelbond roof and it just wasn't rated for that, though it was only 42C on the ground.

Tyres freezing flat is scary! Lettuce freezing on the way to the car is scary! I think -5C is the coldest weather I've ever been in and that wasn't even in Australia.
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[personal profile] sushiflop 2024-01-23 03:39 am (UTC)(link)
I was just thinking about the deep cold today, and how I could feel the difference when it "warmed up" to 0 after weeks of -30ish, -40ish degrees in my nose, literally in the membranes. Ah, the mucous membranes did not freeze instantly upon inhale? It must have become temperate!
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[personal profile] alchemise 2024-01-23 03:45 am (UTC)(link)
This was so interesting! I miss living somewhere where it gets really cold. My mom claims that when we were little, growing up in MI, that we did that throw boiling water trick, but I don't remember it. And that doesn't even hold a candle to what you're describing.
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[personal profile] snowynight 2024-01-23 04:28 am (UTC)(link)
It sounds so cold! It's both fascinating and horrifying to read about the effect of the cold weather. I hope you can get milder weather soon.
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[personal profile] sovay 2024-01-23 05:01 am (UTC)(link)
Everything starts to break at -50. Fan belts snap like twigs. Tires freeze flat and go CLUNKCLUNKCLUNK until they warm up enough to be round again.

That makes thermodynamic sense.

Thanks for the videos!
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[personal profile] scintilla10 2024-01-23 05:10 am (UTC)(link)
What a neat video! And thanks for sharing about Life in the Cold, it was very cool to read about as someone who lives in much more temperate climes. :)
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[personal profile] cornerofmadness 2024-01-23 05:17 am (UTC)(link)
I've lived in some cold places before, not quite Alaska cold but upper WI was pretty close. I do miss some of it but it didn't have the sun effects (or lack there of) you have. Have you worked any of of this into that Alaskan mystery series you have?
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[personal profile] umadoshi 2024-01-23 11:41 am (UTC)(link)
So. Cold. O_O

It really is amazing how varied cold weather is. Objectively I don't live in a place that gets horrendously cold, although it's more than cold enough for my taste, but when my Ginny moved here from Toronto (which gets colder than it does here, although still nothing like the prairies) it took her a couple of years to feel less like the damp cold was getting right into her bones.
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[personal profile] sgatazmy 2024-01-23 10:39 pm (UTC)(link)
The coldest I ever lived in was -42 and I never want to go back to that. I remember freezing in place while walking to school in -30.

brrrrrr

Sounds so cold there.
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[personal profile] aelfgyfu_mead 2024-01-28 12:47 am (UTC)(link)
I have trouble wrapping my head around temperatures that low!
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[personal profile] lokifan 2024-01-29 01:19 am (UTC)(link)
That video's amazing!

It's incredible to me that people lived in Alaska hundreds, let alone thousands, of years ago - it seems so hard now. I'm actually reading a a very spooky horror book about a polar expedition right now and the main antagonist so far is the wind.